The Ekdahl FAR - Tuning: Difference between revisions

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[[File:Tuning Block.png|thumb|Tuning block]]

== The importance of tuning ==

Getting the tuning right is fundamental to ~~get~~ the ~~string~~ to sound the way you want at the various overtones. Unlike a regular instrument, the Ekdahl FAR will not just sound "out of tune" if not tuned correctly, but rather it won't be able to calculate the right speed for the harmonics. Thus the instrument will most likely not resonate at all, sound dull or create beat notes.

Getting the tuning right is fundamental to getting the instrument to sound the way you want at the various overtones. Unlike a regular instrument, the Ekdahl FAR will not just sound "out of tune" if not tuned correctly, but rather it won't be able to calculate the right speed for the harmonics. Thus the instrument will most likely not resonate at all, sound dull or create beat notes.

Since the instrument relies on the tuning information stored in it, this means that if the tuning of the actual string deviate by as little as a tenth of a Hertz the bowing motor speed given will not correspond to the resonant points on the string.

Since the instrument relies on the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility - Tuning tab|tuning information stored in it]], this means that if the tuning of the actual string deviate by as little as a tenth of a Hertz the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Bowing jack#bowing motor|bowing motor]] speed given will not correspond to the resonant points on the string.

A couple of things should be realized before we get started; this being an acoustic instrument, we're talking about physical strings fastened to physical objects - and all of these things will shift due to things like temperature, humidity etc. To make matters worse, a string heats up a lot during initial playing and will thus expand. My recommendation when preparing to use the instrument is to turn it on ~10 minutes before "serious" use, play the instrument as intended for a while and tune it. After 10 minutes or so, adjust the tuning again as required - it should now be good for a while.

The first order of business is getting the tuning within +/- 50 cents of the desired note by adjusting the ''tuning peg'' using a piano tuning hammer. The tuning could be monitored by ear, using an audio reference or with the help of the automatic tuner in the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility|configuration utility]]. Make sure to NOT try and force the ''tuning peg'' down too low, around 6mm / 1/4" of the threads on the ''tuning peg'' should be visible at the lowest point. Trying to turn the peg further into the ''tuning block'' than this could end up cracking the block, rendering the instrument unplayable.

The first order of business is getting the tuning within +/- 50 cents of the desired note by adjusting the ''tuning peg'' using a piano ''tuning hammer''. The tuning could be monitored by ear, using an audio reference or with the help of the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility - Tuning tab|automatic tuner]] in the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility|configuration utility]].

== Tuning using the control box ==

Make sure to NOT try and force the ''tuning peg'' down too low, around 6mm / 1/4" of the threads on the ''tuning peg'' should be visible at the lowest point. Trying to turn the peg further into the ''tuning block'' than this could end up cracking the block, rendering the instrument unplayable.

== Tuning using the [[The Ekdahl FAR - The Control box|control box]] ==

Once the string has gotten close enough we need to use the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] to get it perfect.

Start by turning the ''harm. shift'' modulation knob to zero, putting the ''harmonic shift'' knob in the middle position and the ''harmonic'' knob at the <s>zero</s> position - this will set the motor to emphasize the fundamental. Make sure all the other knobs are turned all the way to zero and flip the ''gate'' switch to on - this will start the motor. Slowly turn up the ''pressure baseline'' knob until the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] rubs against the string with a steady speed, since the string isn't yet properly tuned it may not resonate.

Start by turning the ''harm. shift'' ''modulation'' knob to zero, putting the ''harmonic shift'' knob in the middle position and the ''harmonic'' knob at the <s>zero</s> position - this will set the motor to emphasize the fundamental. Make sure all the other knobs are turned all the way to zero and flip the ''gate'' switch to on - this will start the motor. Slowly turn up the ''pressure baseline'' knob until the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] rubs against the string with a steady speed, since the string isn't yet properly tuned it may not resonate.

Be careful to not add too much pressure, the bowing speed being uneven is often a good indicator that the motor isn't able to keep up and may be overloaded due to the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] being pressed too hard into the string.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[File:Tuning Block.png|thumb|Tuning block]]
 == The importance of tuning ==
-Getting the tuning right is fundamental to get the string to sound the way you want at the various overtones. Unlike a regular instrument, the Ekdahl FAR will not just sound "out of tune" if not tuned correctly, but rather it won't be able to calculate the right speed for the harmonics. Thus the instrument will most likely not resonate at all, sound dull or create beat notes.
+Getting the tuning right is fundamental to getting the instrument to sound the way you want at the various overtones. Unlike a regular instrument, the Ekdahl FAR will not just sound "out of tune" if not tuned correctly, but rather it won't be able to calculate the right speed for the harmonics. Thus the instrument will most likely not resonate at all, sound dull or create beat notes.
-Since the instrument relies on the tuning information stored in it, this means that if the tuning of the actual string deviate by as little as a tenth of a Hertz the bowing motor speed given will not correspond to the resonant points on the string.
+Since the instrument relies on the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility - Tuning tab|tuning information stored in it]], this means that if the tuning of the actual string deviate by as little as a tenth of a Hertz the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Bowing jack#bowing motor|bowing motor]] speed given will not correspond to the resonant points on the string.
 A couple of things should be realized before we get started; this being an acoustic instrument, we're talking about physical strings fastened to physical objects - and all of these things will shift due to things like temperature, humidity etc. To make matters worse, a string heats up a lot during initial playing and will thus expand. My recommendation when preparing to use the instrument is to turn it on ~10 minutes before "serious" use, play the instrument as intended for a while and tune it. After 10 minutes or so, adjust the tuning again as required - it should now be good for a while.
-The first order of business is getting the tuning within +/- 50 cents of the desired note by adjusting the ''tuning peg'' using a piano tuning hammer. The tuning could be monitored by ear, using an audio reference or with the help of the automatic tuner in the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility|configuration utility]]. Make sure to NOT try and force the ''tuning peg'' down too low, around 6mm / 1/4" of the threads on the ''tuning peg'' should be visible at the lowest point. Trying to turn the peg further into the ''tuning block'' than this could end up cracking the block, rendering the instrument unplayable.
+The first order of business is getting the tuning within +/- 50 cents of the desired note by adjusting the ''tuning peg'' using a piano ''tuning hammer''. The tuning could be monitored by ear, using an audio reference or with the help of the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility - Tuning tab|automatic tuner]] in the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Configuration utility|configuration utility]].
-== Tuning using the control box ==
+Make sure to NOT try and force the ''tuning peg'' down too low, around 6mm / 1/4" of the threads on the ''tuning peg'' should be visible at the lowest point. Trying to turn the peg further into the ''tuning block'' than this could end up cracking the block, rendering the instrument unplayable.
+== Tuning using the [[The Ekdahl FAR - The Control box|control box]] ==
 Once the string has gotten close enough we need to use the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] to get it perfect.
-Start by turning the ''harm. shift'' modulation knob to zero, putting the ''harmonic shift'' knob in the middle position and the ''harmonic'' knob at the <s>zero</s> position - this will set the motor to emphasize the fundamental. Make sure all the other knobs are turned all the way to zero and flip the ''gate'' switch to on - this will start the motor. Slowly turn up the ''pressure baseline'' knob until the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] rubs against the string with a steady speed, since the string isn't yet properly tuned it may not resonate.
+Start by turning the ''harm. shift'' ''modulation'' knob to zero, putting the ''harmonic shift'' knob in the middle position and the ''harmonic'' knob at the <s>zero</s> position - this will set the motor to emphasize the fundamental. Make sure all the other knobs are turned all the way to zero and flip the ''gate'' switch to on - this will start the motor. Slowly turn up the ''pressure baseline'' knob until the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] rubs against the string with a steady speed, since the string isn't yet properly tuned it may not resonate.
 Be careful to not add too much pressure, the bowing speed being uneven is often a good indicator that the motor isn't able to keep up and may be overloaded due to the [[The Ekdahl FAR - Getting started#bowing wheel|bowing wheel]] being pressed too hard into the string.